Bought Avery 5160 Labels? Don't Make These 4 Mistakes I Did (With a Quick Pre-Print Checklist)

Why the Most Common Label Order Goes Wrong (And How This Checklist Helps)

This guide is for anyone who just cracked open a box of Avery 5160 or 8160 shipping labels and wants to avoid the headache of a wasted batch. If you’re printing address labels, barcode labels, or even those neon shipping labels for the first time, the steps here will save you from the exact mistakes I made.

I’m the guy who handles the ordering and production of printed materials for a B2B company. I’ve been dealing with label orders for about eight years now. In my first year (2017), I made the classic mistake of running a full print job without testing. That was a $900 lesson, and it happened with a simple Avery 5160 template. I’ve since created a pre-flight checklist to prevent my team from repeating my errors.

This checklist covers four critical steps. I’d say maybe 80% of the issues I’ve seen stem from these specific points.

Step 1: Stop Relying on Default Templates—Check the Version

The biggest red flag I see is people assuming the label template in Word or Google Docs is perfectly matched to their printer. Nine times out of ten, my issue with the 18160 avery template wasn’t the label itself, but the template version.

Here’s the specific check I do now:

• Source the master template: Go directly to avery.com/templates. Searching for "avery 5160 template" on Google Docs might give you a community version that’s slightly off. The official template is the one to use.
• Check the .docx vs. .pdf flow: I’ve had the 18160 template look perfect on screen but shift 2mm in the actual PDF print. Always, always download the PDF from the Avery site for a test print.
• Don't trust “Auto-Size”: In my experience, the "auto-detect" feature in some label software is a disaster. It misreads the label spacing and ends up shifting the entire row.

I wish I had tracked the time wasted on template mismatches more carefully from the start. What I can say anecdotally is that about one in four quick prints I see from colleagues fail because of a template version issue. Seriously, it's super common.

Step 2: The “Garbage Sheet” Print Protocol

This is the step that saved our team from repeating the biggest expense. After the third rejection of a label order in Q1 2024, I created a rigid rule: print exactly one sheet onto plain paper first.

You’d think this is a no-brainer, but the pressure of getting a shipment out makes people skip it. I’ve done it. It’s a mistake. Here’s what you check on that paper sheet:

• Alignment over the sheet: Hold the paper up to the light against a real label sheet. Look at the margins on the left, right, top, and bottom. They should be even.
• Bleed check (if relevant): For address labels, this isn't a huge deal. But if you are printing a small logo or a barcode that goes right to the edge of the avery 8460 labels (which are a bit smaller), the alignment is critical.
• Vertical drift: Labels 5160 are three across and ten down. The vertical gap between rows is exactly 0.5 inches. If your text in row 1 is touching the top margin and row 10 is touching the bottom, your scaling is off.

The most frustrating part of this process: even after checking the plain paper print, the first run on a real label might still be off. Why? The thickness of the label stock can cause the printer rollers to grip differently. I’m not 100% sure of the physics, but I’ve seen it happen. So, the next step is to print exactly one real label sheet as a test.

After doing this for years, I can tell you it's a pain, but it's way better than trashing a $200 box of labels.

Step 3: The Barcode & Text Readability Trap

This is where I see the most issues, especially regarding barcode labels. I once ordered 1,000 shipping labels for a client who used them for parcel tracking. I checked the text alignment, approved it, processed it. We caught the error when a customer couldn’t scan the package.

The problem? The barcode (a Code 128c) was too small because I used a 10-point font in a tiny space. Industry standard for a shipping barcode is a minimum of 1.5 inches wide at a 0.010-inch X-dimension for reliable scanning. I had it at 1.2 inches. Total waste: about $450 plus the embarrassment of calling the client.

Here is the checklist for this step:

1. Print a test barcode on a scrap label.
2. Scan it with at least two devices. (Phone scanner and dedicated barcode reader).
3. Check the “Quiet Zone”: Every barcode needs a blank space—usually 10 times the width of the narrowest bar—on each side. If your text or graphic is touching the barcode, it won't scan.
4. Text contrast: For text on a label, black on white is the safest bet. If you're using a glossy label stock, avoid light gray or colored fonts. It looks cool but is a nightmare to read under warehouse lighting.

There's something satisfying about a perfectly scanned batch of barcodes. After the hassle of that failed order, achieving that now is a quiet win.

Step 4: The Final Checklist Before You Hit “Print All”

So, you’ve checked the template, printed a test on paper, and done a barcode scan. Don’t rush to print 500 sheets. Do this final sanity check.

1. Check printer settings: Are you on the right paper type? For labels, use "Heavyweight" or "Labels" if your printer has that option. Using the plain paper setting can cause the toner or ink to not bond correctly.
2. Check the feed path: Straight-through feed is best for labels. If you're using a rear tray, fine. But never use the multi-purpose tray for heavy label stacks if it has a sharp curve.
3. Check the atmosphere: This is a weird one, but in high humidity (like summer in the South), the labels can curl in the printer. If your label box feels cool and damp, let the stock sit in the dry office for a day.

I don't have hard data on humidity-related print failures, but based on our 8 years of orders, my sense is it affects about 5-8% of first-time runs in August.

Also, regarding that gates megacrimp catalog example I sometimes use—those catalogs require high-end, two-part labels. Not a 5160. If you're dealing with industrial labeling or catalog printing, you're in a different ballpark. This guide is for the standard office label. As for the RA manual or trying to decipher the Chicago Manual of Style for label copy? Unless you are writing a dissertation on label design, just keep the text consistent and check for typos. Seriously.

Don't Overthink It (But Don't Under-Prepare Either)

This checklist takes 10 minutes. I'd rather spend 10 minutes explaining options to a new hire—or doing this checklist myself—than deal with mismatched expectations later. An informed user asks better questions and makes faster decisions.

Bottom line: The labels are standard. The templates are free. The mistakes are expensive. Use this checklist and save yourself a ton of trouble.